Road Trip to the Sunshine Coast

By Ron Johnson

The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia might be a short 40-minute ferry ride away from Vancouver, but crossing Howe Sound into the hinterland is a sure-fire way to cut the urban cord and dedicate yourself to recharging your batteries. Although certainly on the radar of city dwellers who are transforming the burgeoning region into another upscale playground, there is still enough quiet spots, and authentic outdoor adventure to go around. For a weekend away, head to the northern end of the lower SunshineCoast to Egmont, a very small town positioned at the confluence of four stunning inlets. The area offers incredible kayaking experiences from quick jaunts in Sechelt Inlet to whitewater kayaking at its finest on the Skookumchuck rapids and longer treks to jaw-dropping locales such as PrincessLouisaInlet and Hotham Sound.

What to do: For kayakers looking to trip one of the inlets and head to exotic destinations, consider an area outfitter, such as the folks at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge located in Egmont. The Lodge offers a multitude of custom-designed adventures including trips to the Princess Louisa Inlet, which natives call Suivoolot, or sunny and warm. Launching from Egmont, the trip to the Inlet through Jervis Inlet stretches approximately 80 kilometres and is a challenging adventure itself. When at Princess Louisa, you'll have to negotiate Malibu Rapids, which is a bit of a chore, and where a good guide with local knowledge of tidal conditions and easy routes would come in handy. Once through, you'll be paddling through absolutely stunning, and more peaceful waters surrounded by 7,000 ft. granite bluffs and historical petroglyphs, as well as a number of waterfalls cascading down the slopes through West Coast rainforest until you arrive at your destination: Chatterbox Falls. It doesn't get any better than this. 

 

Local flavour: Being on the West Coast, seafood is an obvious speciality, and at the far end of Lower Sunshine there is no better than chef Chris Donahue of Inlets Restaurant at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge. Perched above the inlets, WCWL's gorgeous dining room features a wall of picture windows overlooking the splendour, and a casual, fine dining experience that would garner raves anywhere in the province. A recent stay saw splendid treatment of everything from mouth-wateringly fresh halibut and spot prawns to traditional West Coast salmon. Nearby Ruby Lake is a fine Italian restaurant, with an array of delicious pastas and a charming lakeside setting.

 

Sidetrip: If playboating is your thing, or even if you're up for a tromp in the woods, a trip to the Skookumchuck rapids is a must-do before departing the area. A scenic 30-minute hike brings you to the rapid viewing point, put in further along the trail. When the water is huge, with the tide flood coming in and the massive waves form, be extremely careful—experienced whitewater kayakers only, please.

 

While you're there: Okay, I know, it is hokey, but who, of a certain mature demographic, wouldn't love a trip to Molly's Reach on Gibson's Landing? Reminisce about the good, old days when Bruno Gerussi was the face of the CBC and The Beachcombers was a TV smash. Oh that Relic! And, for what it's worth, the town is very cute, with a number of local artists and fun shops to check out while you're there. In addition, Robert's Creek has a great coffee shop dubbed the Gumboot, and Davis Bay is the place to check out for a little sand worship — sweet beach.

Where to stay: The West Coast Wilderness Lodge is picture perfect. The main lodge houses the beautiful dining room, and downstairs games room. In addition, there is a massive deck overlooking the inlet, hot tub and a few outbuildings that are home to the well-appointed, upscale but comfortable rooms. On our first night, three bald eagles entertained us while we ate dinner, and there were deer at the back door when we got back to the room. A walk the next night revealed a pair of beautiful elk grazing in a neighbouring field. This is luxury amidst serious wilderness and well worth the effort it takes to get there. Kiwi Kathryn Gilberd does a fine job as adventure director and WCWL Grand Poobah Paul Hansen makes a fine host. For more information go to www.wcwl.com.