Pedaling Nelson

Deep in the heart of the British Columbia interior mountains, perched ideally between Calgary and Vancouver, is the outdoor Mecca of Nelson. You might remember the town as the setting for the Steve Martin movie, Roxanne, or as the unofficial centre of the last vestiges of the B.C. hippie culture. Adorned with stunning Victorian architecture, a thriving arts scene and a local food scene matching much larger cities, Nelson offers much to the weekend warrior. But what Nelson does better than most cities is mountain biking. Trails snake through the surrounding Selkirk Mountains. Tour operators with intimate knowledge of the local landscape can offer up an adventure custom-designed to your skill set, or you can try your luck with a trail map and a prayer. Afterwards, if you are brave enough, take a dip in the glacier-fed KootenayLake.

What to do: The first sentence of Nelson's tourist information says it all: "Mountain biking in Nelson is the stuff of legend." If you consider yourself a serious mountain biker, making your way to Nelson is not an option to be discussed over pints at the local pub. It is a yearning. You know it is awesome, and you know you have to try it. The Sproule Creek trails are especially scenic, but they are also multi-use trails. Many of the trails closest to town are great for beginner and intermediate riders, and accessible by bike - that is, if you like climbing. If not, it is suggested that you park your car at Mountain Station and get underway there. This area is the closest to town, and packed with well-designed trails. The thick forest is very scenic as the trail winds along a charming creek to an old mill. Looking to experience the best the area has to offer, try a trail dubbed The Vein. This epic single track odyssey is accessed through Mountain Station and starts with a massive 1.5 hour climb straight up, followed by a long traverse to the trail head at the top of the ridge. What follows is best described as "the descent of the gods" - steeps galore, rocks, stunts, serious air, one of the best options out there to test even the most seasoned riders. For cross-country riding, try the Smallwood area 20 minutes west of Nelson. The trail features a mellow climb up to a lookout, and a quick descent that can get a bit technical in sections, so be ready. Consider getting in touch with the Nelson Cycling Club for up-to-date information (www.nelsoncyclingclub.org) or check in with one of the cycling shops in town.

Local flavour: While in Nelson, consider some of the local specialties - and, no, I'm not referring to the legendary pot farming operations. Try the bistro, All Seasons Cafe (www.allseasonscafe.com), located in a heritage home just off the main Baker Street drag. The restaurant, which also has a cute patio, features local ingredients whenever possible. Try the rack of lamb! For a quick bite at lunch, check out the fun and funky, Max and Irma's, on Kootenay Street. But no trip to Nelson is complete without checking out the cool coffee shop, Oso Negro - great brew, and local characters.

Side trip: Ainsworth Hot Springs (www.hotnaturally.com) north of Nelson, overlooks the KootenayLake and offers amazing après biking relaxation. The facility houses three pools and features a horseshoe-shaped cave. Also a must-do is some alpine hiking up at KokaneeGlacierProvincialPark.

While you're there: This month is the 27th annual running of the Cyswog'n' Fun Triathlon (www.trinelson.com). A popular event around town, it draws top amateurs as well as adults and youth just out for a good time. The course is centered around the scenic LakesidePark on the shore of KootenayLake. Also, every September, Nelson hosts a Fat Tire Festival in memory of a local rider named Cam Alexander. The Fat Tire fest features an array of contests, downhill and cross-country races.

Where to stay: The city is overrun with bed and breakfast establishments and cute country inns. The Hume Hotel (rates - $99 to $139) is a landmark establishment founded back in 1898; so if you like character, this might suit your tastes (www.humehotel.com). For something a bit more upscale, try the Prestige Lakeside Resort (rates - $169.95 to $649.95) on KootenayLake with pool, hot tub, fitness centre and the Shallmar Day Spa (www.prestigehotelsandresorts.com). 

How to get there: Air Canada Jazz offers daily flight service into nearby CastlegarAirport. If driving, take Hwy. 1 to Hope, then Hwy. 3 to Castlegar, then 3A to Nelson. For more information, go to www.discovernelson.com.